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Butterick Making History Victorian Jacket (B52320

January 27, 2013


In November last year (2012), I started work on a jacket toile using Butterick’s Making History Victorian Jacket pattern.  Because of my size and shape, I hit a mental block and came to a complete standstill…until now. 

First calico toile with fur collar

First calico toile with fur collar

With the discovery of The Historical Sew Fortnightly Facebook page, which offers up a new needlework challenge every fortnight, I thought that I would have another go at this jacket for the UFO (Un-Finished Object) challenge.  Even if I don’t finish it, I will be a lot further on than I was. 



As I have already mentioned, I am not a standard size or shape, so the toile did not look or feel at all right when I tried it on.  At first I decided to partially un-stitch the centre back seam to see if I needed to add a bit, but this made no difference to the gaping at the back of the arm holes, so I have re-sewn it and un-done the side back sections and enlarged them. 

Then came a slight challenge with the sleeves… 

My silly mistake!

My silly mistake!

Inexperience with patterns had me making what I thought was a half-inch seam, which left me with the stepped piece on the sleeve and bodice.  How the heck does that fit together smoothly?  I just couldn’t see it…until it was pointed out to me that the stepped bit was the seam allowance!  DOH!  Once I had re-sewn the seams it all looked right.    

New pieces were then cut out and a second toile was sewn together, giving a much better fit, but still with a slight gape, so I will probably add small shoulder pads, as I have sloping rounded shoulders, but we shall see how it sits once the sleeves are in place. 

So far, so good!

So far, so good!

Bugger!  The second sleeve has been sewn in…inside out!  



Actually, the sleeve is the right way round, but I’ve sewn it in the wrong way round.  😦

Never mind, it made no difference to how it felt when I tried it on.  Now I have another little challenge…when I re-jigged the back, side-back and front pieces, it altered the size and shape of the arm-scye.  It looks fine on Mathilda, because she does not have arms, but I seem to have made it too wide, so the sleeve-head now pulls tight across my upper arm.  

So, although I haven’t even started on the actual jacket, and won’t fulfill this challenge, I  am further along than I would have been without it!  😀



3 Comments leave one →
  1. August 29, 2015 2:26 pm

    Good luck. I did the same thing, sewed an sleeve backward, it was my brother’s girlfriend’s Prom Gown, & it was Red Jersey knit fabric, that I have a hard time with. Lucky for me it was short sleeve & I just made another. My funniest mistake was handsewing a simple sling type bag, I sewed a large portion of it to my skirt I was wearing. ☺After that fairly tight clothes. I wish I could have shown you the reversible men’s waistcoat? In tweed with wooden buttons. I always like older styles. The vest I made when I was about 14,then my daughter found it decades later & wore it.
    I would have loved to sew a Victorian Dress, hat& all. I have Essential-tremors. Due to the tremors I’m unable to sew anymore. So don’t leave it a ufo. I’d love to see you wearing it. Sorry didn’t mean to write a blog on your blog. I’ll be following you.
    From the woman across the pond. M

    • November 11, 2016 10:24 am

      Thank you for your reply, M…it’s lovely to know that your daughter has cherished your early creation. X.
      It’s about time I got up to date with my blogs, as I have quite a few ufos that need finishing, and that will now be even easier with two working sewing machines and an overlocker, even though I love hand-sewing. The patchwork garments that I have planned will give me plenty of opportunity to do that, though…like my patchwork pantaloons. 😊

      • MaryAnn permalink
        November 12, 2016 5:32 am

        I’ve been holding onto a brand new Brother sewing machine, with all the bells & whistles. I hate it, even though I never used it. I prefer hand, or a plain straight sewing machine. Unfortunately I don’t know anyone who sews, so my sewing things will probably end up in the trash. Unless they find a miracle cure, or maybe zigzag, bad sewing creations will come in style. lol. I may try hand sewing, but I need red fabric. I may attempt to make a reticle. Sewing is relaxing for me.
        Your coming along, think about before sewing machines, and all the hand sewing. I doubt it was enjoyable then:)

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