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A Corded or Tucked Petticoat

June 6, 2012

First, I made a Regency-style dress.  This was for the 2009 Jane Austen Festival’s Grand Regency Promenade…without the use of a pattern, as I had no idea then that so many were available.  (Check out my Links page for addresses, as these do get added to from time to time). 

Anyway, after wearing that dress for three promenades, without a petticoat, and having it cling to my legs or stick out at strange angles, I have decided that I very definitely need to make a petticoat! 

My first promenade dress – 2009

Even during the period when flimsy muslin was the fashion, petticoats were an important garment for any self-respecting lady of fashion.  Not only did they add another layer to preserve one’s modesty, but they also gave the gown the correct shape.  There is an excellent article on petticoats in Your Wardrobe Unlock’d for those who are subscribers.

Back to my first attempt…I used the Sense and Sensibility Regency Gown pattern as a basis after reading their tutorial

S&S Regency Gown Pattern

S&S Regency Gown Pattern

Then I discovered this brilliant blog that explains the making of the bodiced petticoat in more detail

I then had a better idea of what I wanted to achieve, but I did not follow these instructions to the T…I did not line or bone the bodice, but have gathered the front onto the waistband, and have used a front-fastening with drawstings.

It took me several weeks to get the bodice done, because I had to think about each step and how to get the pattern right so that it fits my awkward shape!  As I have narrow, sloping shoulders, I have always had big problems when it comes to straps of any kind, so the back must be high enough to prevent them falling down.

The taking of photos as I make something did not happen this time, as I was trying hard to concentrate on getting costumes made for the first Horncastle Regency Festival.  Sorry.  As it was, I still did not get any new dresses made for myself, as I was making Robert a new shirt, neckcloth and waistcoat.

As for the hem, I decided to go with tucks, rather than cording, which I believe came a bit later as dress hems began to flare again.

I will add a photo when I have one, to show the finished garment.

Regency Stays…First Attempt

June 3, 2012

Having worn my first Regency-style promenade dress to the Jane Austen Festival in Bath a couple of times, I decided that proper underpinnings were necessary, to give me a real Regency shape, and to prevent my dress clinging to my legs when strolling about the town.

First Regency-style outfit…without under-garments!

I looked around for a suitable pattern for some Regency stays, when a friend said I could borrow her Sense and Sensibility pattern –  I then copied this onto dot and cross paper. 

I measured myself and chose the relevant size, cut the pieces from calico, and tacked them together…to find it just did not fit!  The reason is that I am not a standard size or shape, so a lot of re-jigging and fiddling had to take place before I was totally happy with it.   

The most obvious problem was the straps.  As I have very narrow shoulders, I had to re-adjust the back and side pieces in order to bring the straps in enough so they actually sat on my shoulders.    

The next niggly bit was the ‘cups’, as the pieces for my ‘size’ made no difference to the shape of the stays…flat…and were totally in the wrong place for me, anyway.  I had to move them inwards so they were not under my armpits!! 

The straps were not fixed, as in the pattern, but left free at the front with eyelets added so that I can adjust them…I might even add some more so that I can hoist it up a bit more!  😉 

Stays, almost finished

The length of the stays was not enough to be comfortable, so I added a couple of inches to the bottom.  The boning was added, then I spent ages top-stitching them like original examples were…

Regency Stays (KCI)

Another wee problem has now come to light…I don’t have enough bosom to create a ‘shelf’.  How can I rectify this?  ‘Chicken fillets’?  Maybe, but they cost money, so I made some crescent-shaped pads that I stitched into the cups.  Has this worked?  Yes and no.  I had a ‘shelf’ at last!  🙂  It didn’t last…after wearing the stays for a little while, my bosom began to disappear downwards.  😦

Wearing my new stays, before weight gain

I still haven’t worn them, as I have since put on weight, and they have become uncomfortable.  Oh well…back to the drawing board!

Fashion Museum, Bath

January 18, 2012

OK, time to get blogging and do a little catching-up before we proceed with 2012, so…back to September…and Bath!


After the Promenade and lunch, we joined the crowds at the Guildhall, where I bought myself a spencer pattern.  We met up with Scott and Jo again, and went for a wander up to some shops they wanted to visit, and from there up to the Fashion Museum. 

When  Robert saw how much admittance was he declined as we didn’t have enough money, and we left them hunting through their purse and wallet for their National Trust cards which would allow them free admittance.

Outside the Assembly Rooms

Tuesday arrived, and we headed back to Bath for the picnic on the grass in front of Royal Crescent…


The weather wasn’t the warmest, or the brightest, but at least it didn’t rain…until later.  After a while we were joined by Aurora and her friend Justin…Aurora was also in her Regency costume. 

When we’d taken everything back to the cars, we headed back up the hill to the Fashion Museum.  I was so looking forward to seeing all those beautiful 18th century and Regency-era gowns again, but I was to be disappointed. 

Since our last visit, things had changed to accomodate the latest exhibition of bridal gowns, which had taken over the area where all the eighteenth century gowns had previously been displayed. 

A couple of lovely gowns

These gowns were all beautiful, but they weren’t displayed in chronological order…just displayed all together.

More beautiful gowns

The beautiful seventeenth century silver tissue gown was now sans pretty mannequin with lace collar and accessories…

17th c gown

But we did get to play…


Then on to the costume displays that I had come to see, starting with some early accessories…


Disappointment was just around the corner…All the previously well displayed gowns and accessories had been crammed into glass-fronted alcoves and called ‘Behind the Scenes’.  Some were so dimly lit that it was impossible to see any of the beautiful embroidery or detailing on them!  😦

Poorly displayed gowns

Hem details

A very pretty gown




We even sat down and did some drawing…

Doodle time

Back upstairs, we decided to have a quick wander around the Assembly Rooms… 


We left the Assembly Rooms, to find that it was raining…and you will also find that the rest of the day is covered in another post…:-)

Lincolnshire Sunbonnets

November 18, 2011

Actually taken in the 1980s

My first introduction to sunbonnets came just before the 1983 Lincolnshire Show. 

I’d started a temporary job at the Museum of Lincolnshire Life in May, and had only been there a few weeks, when one day I was called away from what I was doing.  Arriving at the staff room, Lesley handed me a long black skirt and told me to put it on and go outside where a sunbonnet was plonked onto my head and a big basket thrust into my hands. 

What on earth was going on?  All was soon revealed.  A couple of guys from the local rag were there to do a bit for the Lincolnshire Show supplement…and here I am (with Kevin) on the front page…

Lincs Show supplement 1983

 And the article inside…

The way we were

When the photoshoot was over, I was able to have a good look at my temporary headgear.  It was a delightful Lincolnshire sunbonnet, and I was fascinated! 

Later on, whilst working in the store-room, I came across three boxes of these sunbonnets.  All else was forgotten, as I went through each box in turn, inspecting every bonnet, and grabbing a sheet of paper, I did some sketches and worked out how they were constructed. 

That evening I found some scraps of fabric and attempted to make a small bonnet, just to see how it would turn out, and when I was happy with the mock-ups I went on to make my first proper Lincolnshire bonnet. 

I was quite pleased with the results, and taking it in to work, showed everyone.  The feedback was all positive, and I remember someone saying that I should make more in children’s sizes, then they could be sold in the shop. 

And that, my friends, is how it all began…! 

I made this!

Trying to find out more about sunbonnets in general has not been an easy task, as documentation is very sparse.  Usually all that is available are paintings of pastoral scenes, prior to the advent of photography.  A few old bonnets in museum collections, often without provenance,are all we have to go by, some with sketchy details like where it was worn and by whom,  

When did women begin to wear them for protection whilst working in the fields?  Where did the patterns come from?  Could an old fabric bonnet, such as the examples shown in Empire/Regency fashion plates, have been found in an old chest and worn and the design caught on?

Costume Parisien 1812

Or perhaps those old corded bonnets continued to be worn and gradually developed into the popular Victorian sunbonnet?  I guess we will never know, but it is interesting to speculate, isn’t it!

Etsy Success!

October 26, 2011

Having opened my Etsy shop in June, I started to add the bonnets that I had been making.  First to go on were the three Empire/Regency inspired bonnets…two in cream spot fabric, and one in green cotton.  The inspiration came from the Costume Parisien fashion plates…

Bonnets 1812 

Next, I decided to add the Lincolnshire sunbonnets that I had made previously.  This then required me to add categories…Empire/Regency, and Victorian.  Later, when I have produced a few more items, I may add 18th century and Miscellaneous too. 

Anyway, on checking my e-mails on Monday afternoon I discovered…that I’d sold a bonnet!!  Yay!  I was over the moon, as I thought that it would never happen. 

This is the bonnet that has now gone to a new home in Germany…

I do hope that the buyer is happy with it…!

I now have a small pile of fabrics before me, green cotton, white cotton, and a lovely chocolate-brown that will probably go with a pale beige and white stripe that I had started some years ago.   There is not enough to make a complete bonnet, and I have no idea what became of the rest of it…oh well, I am sure I can concoct a confection that I can post in Miscellaneous!

A Regency Picnic in Bath

October 8, 2011

One end of Royal Crescent

The other end of Royal Crescent

On the Tuesday after the Promenade, Robert and I headed back to Bath in costume to meet friends for a picnic, on the green in front of Royal Crescent.

Again, the weather was not very promising, with grey skies and a bit of a cool breeze, but at least it hadn’t rained yet!  We arrived, parked in the car park below Royal Avenue, and headed up to join Scott and Jo who were already there. 

Jo and Scott

As we wandered across the grass I noticed that Eileen had also come to meet us, as she said she might do during her lunch break.

Robert and Eileen

Eileen only stopped for a short while, but it was lovely to see her again after so long…it was the 2009 Promenade when we met Eileen, Rachel and Natalia for the first time in person…and I treasure special memories of that Promenade.

It was fun to watch people’s reactions to seeing us as usual, especially when we could see cameras pointed in our direction from some distance away.  Some people wandered over, unsure whether to ask if they could take photos, others just came over and spoke to us and posed with us.  Here’s a picture that Robert took by setting the timer…

Myself, Jo, Scott, and Robert

Just look at those clouds!!  It didn’t rain though.

After a while, Aurora and Justin joined us, and we had a very pleasant couple of hours…apart from the large group of school children who came tramping across the grass with their teachers, and settled down noisily right behind us!!  Oh well…

A few spots of rain began to fall, so we decided to pack up and take the picnic stuff back to the cars, before wandering up to the Assembly Rooms and Fashion Museum…more of that in the next blog.

Heading for the carpark

The few spots of rain were just that…a few spots.

When we emerged from the Fashion Museum and Assembly Rooms, we saw that it was raining a bit more, so it was time to leave Bath.  Aurora and Justin left us at this point.

Scott and Jo were camping at a picturesque place that we had passed on several occasions, and people had mentioned their cream teas, so this was our next stop.  

Leaving Bath in the rain

We arrived at Stowford Manor Farm, and tip-toed through the puddles to the tea-rooms…what a loveley place it is…

Stowford Manor Farm

While we waited for our cream teas, we had a look around the room at the lovely old fireplace, the beams, the windows, and the items displayed therein including…a Wurlitzer jukebox!!

Isn't this cosy!

I do apologise for not taking any photos of the cream teas, but when they arrived we were too busy tucking in and enjoying them!!

We had a wonderful afternoon, despite the ‘iffy’ weather, and we hope that next year we can arrange to do more than just the promenade.  Scott has mentioned organising another picnic, but next time arranging it properly, well in advance, so that more people can join in.  We look forward to it!

Jane Austen Festival Promenade – Part Two

September 28, 2011

Promenaders in Royal Crescent

The promenaders arrived in Royal Crescent, and soon the whole place was full of Regency costumes.  If it wasn’t for the cars parked there, you could actually imagine yourself back in the Age of Elegance!

Crowded Royal Crescent

Scott and Joanna

Joanna, Aurora and friends

So many beautiful gowns, spencers, pelisses, and accessories, and it wasn’t just the ladies, even the gentlemen put on a show…

Although the weather was a bit cool and grey, the rain had held off, and we had actually seen a little bit of sunshine.  Then a few spots of rain turned into short, light showers, and umbrellas were required rather than parasols.

Most people had come to Bath equipped for the weather

An elegant lady and gentleman

After a while of walking, chatting, and watching the dancers (I was told that there was a different group of dancers this year, instead of Steps in Time, but I never got to see as there were far too many people…and I’m only little!), we began to wend our merry way back down the hill, via Gravel Walk.

It is usually when we get as far as Queen Square that people start breaking away to wander around town and do a bit of sight-seeing or shopping, as those with tickets head for the Guildhall for lunch.  Robert and I were with Scott and Joanna, and their friend Aurora, and they suggested going to a little place in Old King Street called Hall & Woodhouse ( ) for lunch.  And an excellent lunch it was, too!

We arrived at the Guildhall, and had our money ready to pay the £2 admittance, when the young lady asked if we had been in the Promenade earlier.  We replied that we had, and she let us in…no charge.  Bargain! 

A Guildhall chandelier

There was only one stall that I was desirous of seeing, and that was Nehelenia Patterns ( ) as there was a spencer pattern that I wanted to buy.  I didn’t realise that Past Patterns were also going to be there, or I would have made sure I had more cash on me in case they had one that I wanted, too.  In fact, I totally forgot to peruse the items on display there!  😦

After leaving the Guildhall, we went with Scott and Jo to some vintage shops that they knew about…oh, boy! was I wishing for a BIG lottery or scratchcard win!!  So many beautiful items, including a fine corded Victorian child’s bonnet for £50! 

We were heading back up the hill with the intention of visiting the Fashion Museum, but a shortage of cash put paid to that idea for us…

Rummaging for NT cards

So, leaving Scott and Jo, we headed back down the hill.  As we emerged from a shopping mall opposite the Guildhall, we saw a couple of ladies in costume and got a photo of them…

Then we noticed the market…and decided to have a quick wander round.  Here we discovered more people in costume, and they seemed to be swarming around one stall in particular, so I had to go and investigate.  Pretty shiny things!!  Jewellery and tiaras…oh boy!  Again I wished for a big lottery or scratchcard win! 

It was here that we got talking to a couple of ladies in beautiful costumes, and I would have chatted forever had not Robert remined me that we had to get back to the car.  

We had parked in the cricket ground car park, and as we strolled across the bridge and along North Parade Road we were once again getting those quizzical looks from people.  🙂

Oh dear!  A brilliant day was about to go horribly wrong!  Robert had left the lights on and the battery was flat!  He had to find someone who could get us going, so jump-leads in hand he went in search.  One good samaritan tried to help, but it turned out those leads were next to useless!

A phonecall to Scott to find out if they had left Bath yet…no.  Phew!  They arrived and another attempt was made…still no joy.  Then someone came over with BIG jump-leads and ‘hey presto!’ the engine roared into life! 

We finally left Bath…but despite the weather, and this little incident…we had a brilliant day!!  😀